Dig Day 12 - Tuesday 10 July

Tuesday morning, and another hearty breakfast amongst the corps. Nothing like a bit of Pita bread dipped in olive oil then dipped in zatar spice. Breakfast of champions!! Court obviously agrees.

Work continues in Square 96 - getting closer to the bottom. Still yet to work out what these holes in the west wall are for. I remember reading earlier filed reports regarding the church itself, how they found holes in the walls which held big brass hooks that would then allow you to hang things from. I'm tempted to think that these would serve a similar purpose, yet the holes themselves would appear (to my mind anyway) to be a bit too big for such a purpose.

Also taking note of this large indentation in the east wall. At first sight it looks like a bit of an enclosure for seating, but wondering if this may have served a more domestic purpose. The remains of some makeshift chimney maybe? Or an oven? If so, why the lack of wood remains?









Then of course we have this northern wall that is separating this space from Sq 95. It appears to be pretty much fill from this side, but on the Sq 95 side we have limestone blocks at the base, and you can even see mortar between the cracks. A bit of a makeshift job, one wonders if Squares 95 and 96 were originally joined together.






Dr Bob gets to works on digging away at the top of the balk, careful not to go at it too hard so as to avoid having the whole lot come down on him.








I get to work at it from my (ie Sq 95) side, but sadly am a little bit too enthusiastic, having to quickly clean up my mess before Ana arrives to continue measuring and drawing up the top plan.

Whilst working in Square 96, Mahmoud finds this interesting piece, possibly from a larger pot or vessel. An amphora of wine maybe?

Work continues in Sq 96, seen here from the vantage point of the now (almost connected) Square 95.

Eventually this piece in the NW corner of the square is exposed. Appears to be some sort of grindstone, probably for cooking. Was this possibly a communal kitchen with some connection to the chapel and the church? Once again, a healthy amount of pottery gets dug up as well.

Meanwhile, Luke has been busy clearing out what appears to be a water channel running along the eastern edge of Square 95, near where the exposed piece of mosaic floor is. It would on initial observation appear to be the previous floor of the chapel, before being dug up and later replaced with the mudstone tiles we now see. Upon further investigation, I'm wondering if it in fact might be the remaining edge of a mosaic "pathway" dividing the chapel from the church. That'll have to be for another excavation I'm afraid.

End of the day, take this parting shot of the chancel screen and the back of the "whole" chancel post. Note the hole located in the top half, possibly there to insert a hanging implemement of some sort.

Dig Day 11 - Monday 9 July

Back to the grind!! Last week for me, all are looking and feeling calm and centred. May be not Pete, judging by his nice little bit of photobombing behind myself and Olivia. Damn, imagine having a psycho like him as your area supervisor!!!!

Things get a little down when the Area E crew reach the site. Sometime over the weekend, someone has seen fit to kick in the base of the chancel screen. Also left a little gift for us in the Roman Bath. This is despite the fact that the area has someone "guarding" the site at all times - although the guard is situated on a hill over the valley, so it wouldn't be hard to miss something. Anyway, can't dwell on this, there's still work to do.

Now that Square 95 has been cleared, preparations are made to measure it up and get drawing of a top plan underway. Dr Bob, Aaron, Luke, and myself begin the process of laying out the borders using coloured string, followed by the laying out of measuring tape. This would be used to create a "real world" X-Y axis, from which Ana and I would get to work, painstakingly measuring up each and every line and crevice within the square. This would include measuring each paver, each significant crack and whole, each significant object within the space, all measured to scale. Harder and a lot more fiddly than it looks.

 

Work would continue on Square 96, digging up a healthy amount of Umaayad era pottery shards. 

Also a large number of glass shards as well, including pieces which would appear to have been the remains of a bottle. This was confirmed when the larger neckpiece was unearthed.

This week would also be Area E's turn to be working in the registery for the afternoon. Whilst everyone else would be outside for the pottery reading, any pieces to be kept are sent upstairs to be logged by the registery crew. This would include labelling the pieces, weighing and measuring them, and logging them into the Excel spreadsheet according to type and description.

Labelling the pieces involves painting on a small strip of nail polish remover (done by yours truly here), which once dried would then be labelled with a felt black pen.

Sunday 8 July - Madaba, Mt Nebo, Irbid, and back to the compound

Get my usual early rise in to get that all important swim in the pool (minus of course the one hand that needs to be kept dry - spend the morning playing up periscope, almost). Join Cheryl and Dr Susan for a leisurely breakfast, before joining the group as we head to the Church of St George (home of the famous mosaic floor map) for their Sunday Morning service. Place is packed, so we're standing up the back. Manage to record a bit of the Greek Orthodox chanting of the priests with the congregation. I noted during the service that they keep the floor map mosaic service covered - understandably so - I'd wondered how they go about protecting it on Sunday mornings.

After the service we're given free time to go for a wander around Madaba, I opt to go it alone and check out some of the markets around the vicinity of the mosque close by. Buy a couple of head scarfs, get some perfume for my sister, and some all important dead sea mud and salt crystals for mum and my darling missus.

Should say a short word regarding the perfume. You'll generally find around Jordan small perfume stores presenting an array of groovy looking bottles, marked W and M, indicating the sex, filled with an array of different coloured liquids. The idea being that you select your cologne of choice, which they'll then take, add a bit to some water, and pour into a pump spray for you to mist yourself whenever the need arises for a bit of a freshen up. Of course I didn't quite know this at the time, so simply walked in and chose what I thought to be a groovy looking bottle filled with a pale blue liquid. What I hadn't appreciated of course was the fact that the solution is exceptionally thick, strong, and oily, and therefore does in fact require dilution.

The gentleman of course prepares to pour it into the water filled pump pack, but I try to explain to him that I wish to purchase the entire bottle. Seems perfectly reasonable to me, but naturally they find the concept of this completely retarded. To make matters more complicated, the bottles aren't secure, with only a glass stopper to seal them. Nevertheless, I manage to convince him that its the entire bottle I want, and then I have to explain that I want it sealed. He manages to find some sticky tape, and we do a bang up job sealing the thing.

As a side note I should mention that the bottle managed to make it safely home without spillage on the flight. Two weeks after I returned, we were flying up to Hamilton island for the family do that would be the celebration of my sisters birthday. I'd failed to seal the thing properly in my luggage, and when I took it out to check it, half its contents spilled onto my pants - really strong smelling oily cologne!! The stain is still there on my crotch!!

On my way back to meet up with the crew I was passing a run of shops, and was called into one store by a young guy that I assumed ran the shop. Sonny was his name, his store was filled with spices, foodstuffs, and various cooking nick knacks. He showed me around the store, and we got chatting. Turns out that he'd only recently arrived in Madaba, having escaped from Syria. He'd been a psychology student in Damascus, but had been forced to flee due to the uprisings. EXACTLY why he'd had to flee was never really established, but nevertheless he now found himself in Madaba working in this here store, working for his friend or relative or whomever had been good enough to give him the job. Sounded like he was just desperate for someone to talk to. Must be awful what he's had to endure. Sadly time was ticking, and I mentioned that I needed to go and rejoin my group. We exchanged the usual farewelling pleasantries, and he gave me a long lingering hug. Naturally to my western sensibilities it seemed a bit too long, but I put this down to him being simply a lonely guy who's had to endure a lot of crap and now finds himself in an alien town/country/culture.

After meeting up with the crew, it was back to the hotel to grab our gear and get on the bus. We'd be heading to the shrine at Mount Nebo, bit of a return trip for me, which was fine, since I'd felt my previous visit had been a bit rushed.

This mountain was the site where early Christians in the fourth century converted an existing structure into a church to commemorate Moses' final resting place, and would become a popular destination for pilgrimages made to the holy lands. This church would later be expanded into the present basillica, though sadly current renovations prevented us from entering it. As mentioned in a previous post, the site came under the custody of a Franciscan order in 1932, who supervised excavation and preservation of the site. It has been graced with two papal visits over the last 12 years, Pope John Paul II in March 2000 and Pope Benedict XVI in May 2009.

Managed to spend a bit more quality time at the museum there, got a shot of this chancel post which of course reminded me of our particular find at Area E.

Situated at the apex of the site, overlooking the valley below is the serpentine cross sculpture (the Brazen Serpent Monument) created by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni. It is symbolic of the bronze serpent created by Moses in the wilderness (Numbers 21:4–9), and you'll probably recognize it as a significant symbol for the medical profession.

After finishing up at Mt Nebo (with me briefly sitting in on a mass conducted by a Philipino tourist group), we were back on the bus for the three hour trip home. On the bus we were accompanied by a man from Jordanian Tourism, and coming into Irbid we were informed that he insisted that we all have tea at his place. We were absolutely shagged and wasted, but who were we to refuse such hospitality? We arrive at his apartment, with him having raced ahead to get the place all spruced up, whist also arranging to borrow some chairs from the neighbours in the block, in order to accomodate us in his cosy living room.

Look at young Sam Vila lurking behind the door there!!

A group of girls from the apartment across the hall had looked out to see what all the commotion was about - one of them was none other than Noor, a girl whom Luke, Aaron, and myself had met at Yamouk University two weeks previously when we were trying to find the Yamouk Museum. She'd kindly approached us whilst we were looking very Western and lost, offering to take us to the museum and show us around. She was also studying to be an English teacher, so naturally was keen to converse and practice her English with us. She ended up hanging out with us for most of the day.

So Noor joins us for the little party at our new best friend's pad. She even helps make the tea - I never saw his kitchen, but I was told it was very "single male" (Noor's words, not mine). We hang for about an hour or so before we feel its time to go. We're all completely exhausted and desperate to get home. But not before posing for the obligatory group photo, of course!!

Saturday 7 July - Irbid, Amman, Madaba

Day off - the rest of the crew are off to see the Castle Karak. I on the other hand have an appointment with the good doctor in Irbid to get my stitches taken out. Having seen Castle Karak already, I'm not too fussed. I'll arrange to get to Madaba and meet up with the crew at the hotel tonight.

Dr Bob and Aaron were heading down to Amman today, to do some research and stay the night at the American Centre for Oriental Research. Aaron was also needing to exchange some travellers cheques, something that the banks in Irbid, for whatever reason, would refuse to touch. Dr Bob has very kindly offered to take me to the hospital in Irbid - depending on how long it takes I'll then continue on with them down to Amman.

My appointment with the doctor had been for 9.30am, but sadly because of traffic we weren't able to get there till about 9.45. I'd hoped that wouldn't be an issue, but by the time we'd gotten there the good doctor was "in surgery". This was after the staff had spent a good ten minutes trying to find him - they managed to get him on the phone, where he told me that he wouldn't be able to see me until tomorrow. That, I said, would not be possible. I'd already blown off one outing with the rest of my group, I wasn't going to blow off another as well, especially since I'd need to be coming from Madaba.

After a lot of toing and froing, the staff (very decent of them), managed to find another doctor, who was able to remove the stitches. Thankfully Dr Bob was good enough to wait around in Irbid (I think he had some business to attend to anyway), and after picking me up we were on our way.




Was looking forward to spending another day in Amman, I don't think I gave it much of a chance last time I was there staying in Downtown. The two and a half hour drive proved to be pleasant enough with Dr Bob acting as tour guide, pointing out various biblical spots, including the Zarqa river (identified with the Biblical River Jabbok, where Jacob was said to have wrestled with the Angelic presence in Genesis 32:23).

Here's a few other shots from the road...

The American Centre for Oriental Research (pictured above) is indeed an oasis, having an absolute kick arse library, laboratory, darkrooms (remember them?), tea and coffee facilities, reasonable and affordable accomodation and dining - everything an archaeologist needs when they're away from the site and wish to conduct some research in more hospitable environs. Since 1968 it has served as a private, non-profit academic institution, dedicated (as their website says) to "promoting research and publication in the fields of archaeology, anthropology, history, languages, biblical studies, Arabic, Islamic Studies and other aspects of Middle Eastern Studies." Whilst Aaron and Dr Bob were getting settled into their respective rooms, I went for a little wander around the place - lots of youngish Americans lounging on couches with laptops and ear buds. Also a fantastic balcony with a great view of the city.

Dr Bob insisted on driving me down the road to the nearest place for lunch - I was seriously cool to walk the distance, but he would have none of it - "Way too hot" he'd say. So he drove me down, and he bid him a fond farewell (well, I'd be seeing him again back at base tomorrow night).

Now of course I had the challenge of navigating the bus system again, this time in a completely different city. I'd been given the name of Tababor as the bus station that I'd need to depart from in order to make it to Madaba, where I'd meet up with the rest of the crew - once again we'd be staying at the Mariam, so I was looking forward once again to a swim. Sadly, despite the stitches being out, I was still under orders to keep the hand dry for the next couple of days, but no matter, a dunk was still a dunk.

But until then, Amman was calling. Let me spare you the details - about three buses, three different directions, lots of walking. I'd like to say I knew where I was everywhere I went, but I'd be lying. Did manage to get a shot of this shop though, which I found amusing.

Managed to eventually find my way to the bus station, and after a bit of trial and error, found the bus to Madaba. Did the usual "You going to Madaba" in pigeon Arabic, bus driver answers "You speak English?", in perfect English. Works out that he'd lived in North Carolina for 16 years, married to an American. He'd been back in Amman 2 years, looking after his sick mother. Wife was still in the States - he didn't really indicate whether they were still together or not, and to be honest I didn't want to ask. Tough gig though, being away from your missus for so long - reminded me of my taxi driver in Dubai. We often hear how so much of the world's work force are expatriates, but rarely do we hear about the loved ones that they leave behind. Obviously this guy was in a different situation - it certainly wasn't for lack of work that he'd returned to Amman. Top bloke though - he made the trip to Madaba very pleasant. Lots of discussion as to how Jordan's changed over the years.
Back to Madaba, managed to find my way back to the Mariam Hotel. Would love to say I was able to find it from memory, but ended up having to ask directions from two ladies, who let me accompany them - they were living in the same neighbourhood as the hotel, so they were happy to help out. Got to the Mariam, checked into the room (would be sharing with Dave and Pete), and headed down to the ever important pool that I often find myself craving. Had my swim, and spent the next couple of hours poolside writing and enjoying a couple of glasses of wine. Eventually joined by the rest of the crew, who were absolutely shagged after their desert castles sojourn.

That night a group of us had dinner at the Haret Jdouna Restaurant and Gallery, located opposite The Church of St George (home to the famous Map Mosaic we'd visited on our initial visit to Madaba). Beautiful, beautiful place - food was magnificent (naturally), the DJ (yes the DJ) was spinning the usual fare of Persian Pop tunes, and I even managed to introduce the crew to the joys of haloumi (ah, haloumi!!). Though what I found most striking was not the food, it was the number of tables fall of female patrons, women hanging out together, sans hijab (all really attractive women might I add), drinking wine and sharing a smoke from the ol' hubbly bubbly. Come to think of it, one doesn't see many women veiled in Madaba, it being a town that is primarily Christian.

Back to the hotel, Dave, Pete, and myself hanging by the pool smoking cigars and shooting the breeze till the wee hours. Perfect end to an excellent evening!!